Before you begin
The kit is one pair: one link per side. Turn the red body to change the length, and lock it with the lock nuts at both ends.
- Red body & lock nuts
- Turn the body to set the length. Tighten the lock nuts at both ends when finished.
- Ball joints (×2 per link)
- One at each end. The blue boots must not twist or tear.
Have these ready
Spanners (including one to hold the stud if it spins), cable ties, and a hoist or jack and stands.
Check your application. Confirm vehicle fitment and tightening torques with TopTiger for your vehicle before fitting.
Step 1: Remove the stock links
- Lift the carRaise it on a hoist and remove both front wheels.
- Remove the stock linkUndo the top and bottom nuts and take off the stock link.
- If the stud spinsHold it with a spanner while you turn the nut.
- Keep the stock linkYou need it to set the length in the next step.
Original guide · page 2
Step 2: Pre-set the length
Match the new links to the stock link before fitting.
- LoosenLoosen both lock nuts.
- MatchMeasure the stock link from ball centre to ball centre and set the new link to the same length.
- Same lengthSet both links to the same length first.
- Do not over-extendKeep an equal amount of thread showing at both ends.
Original guide · page 2
Step 3: Fit the top end only
Fit and tighten the top end now. Leave the bottom end free until the car is back on the ground.
- Top endFit it into the knuckle, fit the nut and tighten.
- No twistHold the stud if it spins. The boot must not twist.
- Bottom endLeave it free and tie it up away from the brake hose.
- Both sidesRepeat on the other side.
Original guide · page 3
Step 4: Lower the car, fit the bottom end
Fit the bottom end with the car on the ground at ride height, so the sway bar is not preloaded.
No drive-on hoist? Jack the lower arm up to ride height first.
- Lower the carRefit the wheels, tighten the wheel nuts and lower the car.
- Settle the suspensionBounce the car so the suspension sits at ride height.
- Line up the studCut the cable tie and turn the body until the stud slides into the hole.
- Do not force itNo levering or forcing. A small difference in length between left and right is normal.
- Fit the nutFit the nut and tighten. Hold the stud if it spins.
- Lock the lengthSquare up the ball joints, then tighten both lock nuts.
Square, not angled.
Before tightening the lock nuts, turn each ball joint so its stud sits square to the red body.
Original guide · pages 4–5
Step 5: Check & re-check
- Cable ties removed. All nuts tight.
- Boots intact. Not twisted or torn.
- Full lock both ways. The link clears the tyre, shock and brake hose.
- Test drive. No clunks over bumps.
- Re-check after 300–500 km. Check the nuts again.
Original guide · page 6
Four common mistakes to avoid
These are the checks worth coming back to before the job is finished.
-
Lock nuts left loose
The body works loose and makes noise. Tighten both lock nuts.
-
Fitted in the air or forced into the hole
Preloads the sway bar, causes noise and makes the car sit unevenly. Fit the bottom end at ride height.
-
Forcing a spinning stud
Tears the boot and wears out the ball joint early. Hold the stud with a spanner.
-
Thread over-extended
Too little thread engagement; the link may pull apart. Keep equal thread showing at both ends.
Original guide · page 7
Need a hand with your installation?
Share your vehicle details and Sway bar link model with the TopTiger team.